Monday, March 23, 2015

ITW Into The West 2010 final post

ITW final post October 2010



You never drink twice from the same stream.

Copyright MCMLXIII ALL StoneBearTracks blog posts and photographs  ALL Rights reserved

ITW = Into The West Journey 

Late October 2010

The cowards never started.

The weak died along the way.

Only the strong survived.



That is the synopsis I've heard that sticks... that holds true.

Crossing the continent was not the primary objective of this journey; it turned out that was what happened.

I stand in awe of the pioneers that supplied up - loaded up... "don't worry about the mules Son, just load the wagon"... loaded up everything/ possessions they had,... and left St Louis heading west in a wagon train. My God I love those people; they are my kinda folks!

Public school allowed the basics of Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery, and little of the westward pioneers. Upon this journey, coming to the realization of what it actually took to cross this North American continent... these are my heroes. Traveling across in a modern vehicle, with supply depots, with gas stations for fuel, with modern bridges across rivers.... I do not see how the pioneers did it! These were some rugged hearts in people with a ton of courage and guts.

Women especially. It takes a certain kinda cat to sign on to a plan to go into the unknown and make due with all the hardships. Women did this while raising kids and holding everything together on the frontier.

I waded in and fished many rivers and streams and know the strength of the current. Think of your family and children in a wagon foraging these rivers, a major undertaking; I don't see how they did it.


Going up the river to Independence / St Charles, MO... The final post going on into the west... last chance for supplies, then heading west, going into the unknown.
An axe was the primary tool. it would be needed to cut lodge-pole timber for a homestead in the promised land... when we got there. A knife, personal weapon to thwart threats if need be or skin hides. A gun, a long rifle to hunt for meat,... or preferred for protection if need be.

Tracks on the prairie meant; meat,... or war.

Oxen were the team of draft animals to make this journey. Horses were good for short 15 to 20 mile day rides, but wouldn't hold up pulling a wagon on a long haul.

The trail, mostly virgin prairie at first, then mountains-- then the Rockies-- was littered with the abandon wagons with skeletons of horses where they frothed at the mouth and dropped in place.
If you were lucky, another sympathetic wagon would take you in,... or take the children... usually to the next town / outpost. Then , you were on your own to survive.

You never drink twice from the same stream.

Copyright MCMLXIII ALL StoneBearTracks blog posts and photographs  ALL Rights reserved
******

ITW   98

Tracks of the StoneBear Copyright - MCMLXIII  ALL Rights reserved

ITW = Into The West Journey 

You never drink twice from the same stream.

Copyright MCMLXIII  ALL StoneBearTracks blog posts and photographs  ALL Rights reserved

Monday August 2, 2010



Biggs, Oregon / Maryhill, Washington


It's been months on this journey.  A lifetime by some measurements.



This started back in Birmingham / Leeds, Alabama back in the Spring.   The dimension of time has expanded and contracted at times.... depending on the day and place.   Hiking into the canyon near Thermopolis Wyoming and seeing hundreds of Petroglyphs -- Ancestral Native art etched into the rock face walls-- .... Time went back 11,000 years.  



 At the start the goal was to head West to Arizona, then turn north up through the Rockies ....make it to Montana... to see the Northwest Crown of the Continent.    ... Glacier nat park.




This was a Journey; an expedition. Most days were a see saw / wandering route and not a beeline. The purpose was to see it.

... to breath it.

... to seek it.

.... to walk it and hike it.

to leave the rat race to the rats.

.... to revel in it. ....and know that you did it.


Just because you Wander doesn't mean you're Lost.


After months of traveling the back roads of the west, criss-crossing the same exact routes and trails the pioneers used.

The Oregon Trail.

The Santa Fe Trail.

The California Trail.

The Morman Trail.

The Bozeman Trail.

... there's a greater respect for the Pioneer families;  Those were some hearty folk.  I worry about the country sometimes,   .... then think of the stock we come from; we'll endure the hard parts.  Think Covered Wagon and team of Oxen.



I've dodged tornadoes in Oklahoma.   Camped on the high arid plains of the Southpark of Colorado. .... Hiked into the the Abyss of time at Mesa Verde, Chimney Rock... of the Choco culture.   Walked across Lava fields in Idaho and went down into the ice caves the Shoshone used.   

Hiked down into the canyon and talked w/ the Navajos... --men of the same blood of Manuelito-- at Canyon de Chelly
Camped in the deserts of New Mexico and Utah.

Later traveling North in Utah and Wyoming Trout fished in snow-pack rivers and Glacier Lakes.



Been in thermal Hot springs in Arkansas, Wyoming, and Montana.

Gone through Hell's Canyon on the Snake River.



Crossed the plains where the great herds of millions of Bison used to roam. ...  through numerous Native American Indian lands / hunting grounds.   ...and felt the wind on my face sweeping across the vastness of those plains.
I've felt the chill of hiking through snow-pack,... up to 10,000 ' elev.... feeling the crispness of the thin air while dancing around the sacred circle at Medicine Wheel Wyoming.   I've seen Deer, Elk, Antelope, Moose, pronghorns, fox, Bison,... many birds,Bald and Golden Eagles- ... Osprey, many Hawks... Listened to Coyotes and Wolves howl in the night.... and a glimpse of a Grizzly Bear.


Stood at the headwaters of the Missouri river, where Lewis and Clark's Corps of Discovery camped.


Awakened to 34* mornings in August.   Awakened to 24* mornings in July up high in the Big Horn Mountains. ... and actually seen Bighorn Sheep.


After months.... on the expedition foraging ahead, not knowing what is going to be around the next river bend, or over the next mountain pass. .... not knowing where you'd lay your head that day.... that night until 6 or 7pm.

After a time... you lose any sense of "Home".   At times you've lost the memory of just exactly what IS home.    At times,... there is No Direction Home.

And when you begin driving down that amazing Columbia River. ... & the rolling high plains foothills turn into the brown Basalt stair-steps of an eroded canyon river gorge....


You've been wind burned since leaving Arkansas;  the skin on your face and neck and arms are weathered. and burned bronze.   You see the strength of that wind blowing 40+ up the Columbia pushing modern day wind farm turbines.




And you get to Biggs Oregon, Maryhill Washington on the Columbia .... and you stop ....   and at that moment, .... you can see Mount Hood ahead,...  & sniff the air. You smell the salt in the air.

You wade into the river and you can taste the salt in the brackish water of the Columbia River...



You sense you're close;  you can feel it.   ..... it may be a days ride/ maybe 2 days ride.   Maybe 50 miles from the Pacific ocean. ... and you come to that moment where you know ;    ...by god,... we've made it.  We did it !



We have crossed the North American Continent and lived to tell it.    Closing w/ the Pacific.   .... The Columbia moving toward the ocean.
I was excited.  Exhausted after months of Journey.

   Lord, imagine the excitement of Lewis & Clark after crossing the continent,... knowing they were closing w/ the
Pacific.
I imagine they had a big bonfire at what would become Biggs, Oregon / Maryhill, Washington... and feasted that night on a celebration supper of Elk and Salmon.

I wish I'd been w/ them; that would have been the only thing better than doing this journey now.


This was an Odyssey into the Abyss of Time and Life.

You never drink twice from the same stream.

Thank you for the Abundant Blessings.


You never drink twice from the same stream.

Copyright MCMLXIII ALL StoneBearTracks blog posts and photographs  ALL Rights reserved




Sunday, March 22, 2015

Canyon Ferry to Sheriffs Court - Helena




ITW



Tues July 13, 2010


Canyon Ferry to Sheriffs Court camp


Canyon Ferry Lake camp ... right on the river .... 3/4 mile below the dam. current is strong.

54* am coffee. wind is up in am 20+ Gusts++



This is North of Missouri Headwaters .... & strange that river flows north --- like Niagara river flows north.



Big Belt Mountains to the East.


North are Gates of the Mountains Wilderness.


Helena, Montana


New part of town / old Helena


Library for email check. / info search

Donate pint of blood mid afternoon.


can't find good motel rate. Back to Canyon Ferry... north some to Sheriffs Court camp.

fish into dusk. wind up.. Trout gone to deep water; no bites from bank.


sunset good. Stars are WOW! on black sky


Prineville Oregon Aug 6




ITW Prineville Oregon Friday August 6, 2010

Ochoco camp Sunrise on lake coffee. 47*

Hwy 126 west to 97south to Redmond, Oregon.



Bend Oregon pop 80k. All pass through central Oregon here. Downtown botiques / west coast yuppieville.

head out 14th street to Oregon Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway Loop hwy 46 west.

into Deschutes nat forest. Can see Volcanic flows and push-ups even in forested landscape. Spectacular Buttes and Lava fields... covered in trees but it's there.

DONE Vernal UT to Green River, Rock Srings, WY 1 Jun 15 2010

ITW 39

Tracks of the StoneBear Copyright - MMX  ALL Rights reserved

ITW = Into The West Journey 


Vernal UT 2 to Firehole WY

vernal UT to Wyoming » Rock Springs
June 15th 2010

Went back To Vernal for showers & civilization overnight after the search for
troutfest on Green River / Flaming gorge.

Onto hwy 44N. Mtn terrain Wow
overlooks scenery.

Sheep Creek Geological loop is a "Scenic 'Backway' " ...
really of the path & a lot dirt rd. it's like a geological classroom to see
these rock formations all together in a 20 mile loop. a few times on this
journey have been lucky enough to see a geological "change" in as few as 10
miles... from desert to mountains. ... from mesas to plains... really neat to
see these that quick instead of over 200 miles.

See Sheep Creek post

back on 44n Manilla is a hole in
the wall. hwy 530n 3 mi is WYoming & goes to western rolling plains. some mesas
in plains formations. sagebrush. visibility about 50 miles.


Green River, WY a pass thru town. big union pacific train yard / staging point /
industrial shipping town. I-80 10 miles to Rock Springs. kOA IS BESIDE Oil
REFINERY tanks... PASS. so it's S 191 on the other side of the gorge 20 miles to
Firehole camp. n east side upper Flaming gorge.

desert arid plain, high mesa
buttes & lake all together. really desert beautiful. This was a good choice. See "Firehole" post. camp # 36 $9.00. mesas w/
aft sun & sunset really beautiful & peaceful.. about 10 to bathhouse.... dark
western sky... 1/8 moon & dark. Black sky is great. I have to get up again & go
outside & stargaze. ... even got binocs & is absolutely WOW !!! can see more
stars not previously visible... & could see milky way w/ naked eye. Spectacular
night... another great day.

Sequel

Sequel

Am in the field doing research on my upcoming coffeetable book "Dumpstations
across America". this is the middle part of the trilogy ... the 1st being
coffeetable book "Deerstands of Alabama. & may get the beachboys to re-do
"Dumpin' USA" more later

Wolf Creek Pass CO May 26 2010

Wolf Creek pass
North America » United States » Colorado » South Fork
May 26th 2010 by Hargus

Tracks of the StoneBear Copyright - MMX  ALL Rights reserved

ITW = Into The West Journey 

June  2010


Stayed at Nat wildlife park.. no hookups, just overnight stay. 50 ft from
rushing river. camp host says water too high & fishing better 4 miles up at
resevior. 4pm fished & T-bone caught cutthroat trout & I got a speckled. field
cleaned / dressed/ gutted there & cleaned in the riverback at camp. 1st time for
actual fresh caught trout grilled & it's the only way ... no fish smell. &
really fresh game taste-- not fishy. Was a real treat to grab this moment

Sick Day...

Used up all my sick days so I called in dead.


Journey going ok & Bam... stumble onto this place. Smith rock near Toulouse OR.

***** and there was this

This is better than anything i ever saw on route 66

Sinks Canyon Lander WY Jun 17 2010

Sinks Canyon clear 42* wind 15 -20 +gusts. Chilly am. wind River mtns are in
Shoshone nat forest.... & sinks stpk is below. Sinking hole really does...
snowmelt comes down canyon is PoPo Agie river & actually sinks into limestone
swirl. (river is up from extra 3 1/2 ft snow last week -- so no fishing.) Hiked
trail from sink down to "Rise" where river re-surfaces after a 2 hr dip below
canyon surface. Neat.


NO fishin in the rise & There are 10lb trout just swimming around the pool
swirls. on thru riverton... N hwy 20 / 789 out of Shoshoni changes to boyden st
pk. Arid desert plain lake. brn water really windy like 30+. on thru Wind River
Canyon... spectacular canyon. Huge mtns / deep canyon. maybe 1,000 ft +. some of
the oldest rock formations on earth... 3 billiion old. BNSF train along Wind
river/ canyon... ( changes name to Bighorn River at end of canyon-- only river
in US to do so.)


out of canyon & 10 miles to Thermoplois, WY ... Hot Prings stpk. Hot showers
tonight! It's a great day! & I did not waste it. Thank you Lord.


Waded in Wind River / Canyon too.

Tired 2 Jun 28 2010 Beartooth mtns MT

A few weeks back talked of tired & exhausted. Been much better since & was
probably a 24 -48 hour bug or maybe spider bite that drew me down for a couple
days

Worst RV parks


Tracks of the StoneBear Copyright - MMX  ALL Rights reserved

ITW = Into The West Journey 

Friday June 4, 2010

Worst RV Park -- S opinion # 1. Desert Rose Resort , NM (the key word there is
"Resort" ) # 2. Navajo Lake st pk , CO # 3. Tunica , MS

Hot 2 sightings Raton NM

from previous post concerning financing ...

Every now & then I want a sausage biscuit, a map or something when I stop for R & R . A few times I was waiting to get started & had a few minutes to do some
Hot 2.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaM1PpI7CZ8&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pGHsjyctmw



Black Mesa, Oklahoma didn't make one penny. Zilch. Nada.

Raton, NM Amtrak station $ 1.72

Raton, NM at the model - A show $ 3.19

Tec Nos Pos , NM Nada tough crowd

Grand Junction , CO Fabulous Thunderbirds concert $ 8.57

Thermopolis, WY Hot Springs pavillion $ 2.04

Tetons in a Bear suit $54.27

Higiene4, Mad Bear on the loose...

Tracks of the StoneBear Copyright - MMX  ALL Rights reserved

ITW = Into The West Journey 

Friday June 4, 2010


The dry feet cracking have stabilized & starting to get better. Vicks salve-- the camphor does good-- and Vaseline jel has held moisture in the skin. no soreness now.

****
River bath update.. That's Him!

Kintla creek flows from the lake & into the north fork of the Flathead River. A cold snowpack river bath to get the blood flowing. When bathing at Kintla, the northern most wilderness camp in glacier... A Bear stole my clothes and & I walked back to camp in a towel.

police in West Glacier, MT got a security photo from the quick mart where he bought some beer. They accepted that as predictable. What surprised and has all the park rangers concerned is that the bear used my mastercard to buy a rifle & some ammo.

When I viewed the police photo I confirmed that was him. The Chief asked how I was sure.... He's wearing my shoes.

more later.



Blackfoot River

ITW

Tracks of the StoneBear Copyright - MMX  ALL Rights reserved

ITW = Into The West Journey 



Friday July 16, 2010

Blackfoot River Hwy 200west to Missoula, MT

Left Larch camp, named for Larch pine tree. Some Larch pines here were 3' in diameter 120' tall. Rough brown rugged bark. Down hwy 83 to Salmon lake. Waded in lake for recreation & didn't fish. on to 200E & found spot on Blackfoot river to fish . Waded out to middle of river... shallow & slow enough ... & warm enough to fish a while. also deep enough to swim in a few mins before leaving. Clear water & wind was 20+ . really good to get in a clean mountain snowpack runoff river... & not be 34*.

Also see Postcard Blackfoot River post.


Millport is where Lewis & Clark stopped on way back after reaching Pacific. I wonder what that feels like... to know you're on your way back home. not homesick... just been out so long & have no direction home. will addr that mindset w/in a month. now is just what comes up next. All is amazing to see on this journey.

Blackfoot joins the Bitterroot river and goes to the Snake River. Getting into Missoula late this aft & will be here a day or so. AJ & Joann visit & they are gracious hosts... Thank you! Hot Showers. Supply up for next leg up to Kallispell. will go N to Flathead lake & go the East side of lake up.

Changing of the Guards...

Play this at my funeral

Dylan:

Changing Of The Guards
Sixteen years
Sixteen banners united over the field
Where the good shepherd grieves
Desperate men, desperate women divided
Spreading their wings ’neath the falling leaves
Fortune calls
I stepped forth from the shadows, to the marketplace
Merchants and thieves, hungry for power, my last deal gone down
She’s smelling sweet like the meadows where she was born
On midsummer’s eve, near the tower
The cold-blooded moon
The captain waits above the celebration
Sending his thoughts to a beloved maid
Whose ebony face is beyond communication
The captain is down but still believing that his love will be repaid
They shaved her head
She was torn between Jupiter and Apollo
A messenger arrived with a black nightingale
I seen her on the stairs and I couldn’t help but follow
Follow her down past the fountain where they lifted her veil
I stumbled to my feet
I rode past destruction in the ditches
With the stitches still mending ’neath a heart-shaped tattoo
Renegade priests and treacherous young witches
Were handing out the flowers that I’d given to you
The palace of mirrors
Where dog soldiers are reflected
The endless road and the wailing of chimes
The empty rooms where her memory is protected
Where the angels’ voices whisper to the souls of previous times
She wakes him up
Forty-eight hours later, the sun is breaking
Near broken chains, mountain laurel and rolling rocks
She’s begging to know what measures he now will be taking
He’s pulling her down and she’s clutching on to his long golden locks
Gentlemen, he said
I don’t need your organization, I’ve shined your shoes
I’ve moved your mountains and marked your cards
But Eden is burning, either brace yourself for elimination
Or else your hearts must have the courage for the changing of the guards
Peace will come
With tranquillity and splendor on the wheels of fire
But will bring us no reward when her false idols fall
And cruel death surrenders with its pale ghost retreating
Between the King and the Queen of Swords